Expat Observations

During my weekend in Tana I was exposed to the large and vibrant expat community there. I’ve observed various things, both positive and negative about it. Theresa lives in a beautiful house. She has a maid who does all of her cooking and cleaning, who also goes to the market for her etc. She has a woman come to the house for a manicure/pedicure once a month, and the same for a massage appointment. She once mentioned when I was in Tana at the beginning that it’s a good life to be in a developing country on an American salary. Where else could you afford to keep a maid ? Good point, I thought. Plus, living in that manner does contribute to the local economy. Hiring staff at your home helps other people put their kids through school.

During the weekend, we visited her friend Sofia, a Portugeuse woman who works for the World Bank. She lives in the equivilant of the burbs, and also has a beautiful home with a large yard and garden. She has two dogs that she dotes on. Sofia was very fun, seems a little wild and crazy, and is a very outgoing woman. However, I can’t imagine how isolating it must seem to live far out of town in what amounts to a gated community in an expat area.

While both of these women lead a luxurious life in some ways, it also seems that they’re totally missing out on everything Malagasy. It seems that in some expat circles, everything possible is done to avoid actually integrating into Malagasy society. Granted, I was thrilled to find popcorn at the grocery store in Tana, and enjoyed the western comfort of Theresa’s home for the weekend. I’m certainly not turning my back on everything connected to home. But, I guess I always thought that the kind of people who live abroad, whether it be the 3rd world or Western Europe do so based primarily on a desire to learn about other cultures and languages. Rather, I think that many of them just see being here as a job. There is not always an effort to even learn the language. I feel that there’s often an almost colonial sort of relationship between Malagasys and their white higher ups at work. I’ve noticed it most with the drivers. Whenever I’m in a project vehicle, I make some conversation with the drivers, and make sure to say please and thank you – I was really greatful that Jacky could drive me to the various offices I didn’t need to go to in Tana, because I would have been absolutely overwhelmed on my own. I offered him a chocolate when I was so frazzled that I needed one myself. Another driver, Christian, took me down to the taxi brousse station to help me make a reservation to go to Ranamofana. Whenever I walk into or out of the office, the drivers always say hello to me and ask how things are going, and I appreciate that. However, not everybody affords the same respect to them. While I see every Malagasy (that’s not hissing at me or calling me vazaha in the street) as somebody who can teach me something (mostly about their country or language), I think many don’t have a huge desire to get to know them. Granted, people within the same race or nationality get treated as inferior due to class/education/job all the time – but in situations like this it somehow seems less just, or more élitist.

None of this is to say that anybody I know treats their home staff badly – quite the contrary, actually. Often maids are treated more like family, and definately respected and appreciated.

I think that especially in the generation that’s closer to my age, the expats live more normally – in downtown apartments without home staff, which would be much more my style if I ever decided to live somewhere else long term. (My needs are simple -For more than 4 months I definately think I’d spring for somewhere with a toilet and running water, but I wouldn’t need a maid.) At the same time though, after being in the business for a number of years, and living long term in numerous developing countries, I suppose I could see trying to Westernize as much of one’s life as possible.

The most elaborate and beautiful home from the weekend would be Carlina’s. On the same property, she also has a very extensive outdoor kennel area for the 20 or 30 dogs being taken care of waiting to be adopted. Here is a pic of where the absolutly lovely brunch she hosted took place :