Some general reflections after a week

Children here are very outgoing. This can be incredibly endearing, or incredibly annoying. In la vieille ville (old city, where i live), they are generally curious and very friendly. In the lower part of town they beg much more often, which is heartbreaking and a huge nuisance at the same time. Walking to the Freudenberger’s for dinner the other day, 3 little kids (age 3-6 maybe ?) came up to me and just all said ‘bonjour’ and hugged me, and continued on their way. Many ask my name as I walk by, and then tell me theirs. Out of about 15, I can remember about 2. I was also approached by 3 girls who could have been early high school age, who after asking me where I was from, my name, and introducing themselves, asked if I’d be willing to buy some greeting cards from them. They make them at school, so that they can offer a product to tourists rather than just asking for money etc. Being the sucker I am, I bought one from each of them (but they were only about a dollar each), and they were all very appreciative, wanted photos with me, gave me their email addresses, and walked me home. I have since been approached by other children selling cards. It seems they’ve been coached on how to sell their cards without being a hassle. Since it was a reasonable price, and the girls were very nice and thankful, I feel good about the purchase. I don’t think there’s anything hoodwinking behind it, but I’m not sure.

Many people greet each other « Salama » as they pass each other in street, usually saying « Bonjour » to me. Youngish guys often follow that with a « Ça va ? ». I don’t really know if they’re trying to get into a conversation with me or not, and it’s kind of awkward. I just say « oui, ça va », and keep walking, ignoring if they say anything else. Up at the top of Haut Ville (the high part of town, i.e. the old city), some even followed my response of « bonjour » with « vous êtes belle ! ». I dealt with that by saying a tert « merci » as I’m walking away without turning my head back. It’s just hard to know how to interpret comments in such a new culture. In France, it’s perfectly acceptable to just act like a bitch and say nothing to people as you walk by.

In general, it’s just a little weird standing out so much. In France I used to put the tennis shoes away and try to blend in, which often worked. Most people didn’t know I was foreign until they had been talking to me for a couple minutes. In some ways it’s a relief to just wear whatever I want knowing that I stand out no matter what (and loving that wearing clothes over and over is perfectly acceptable). But, hearing people (mostly children) say wassa (white person/tourist I believe) as I walk by is disconcerting. Wassa isn’t an inherently racist term, but used in anger definitely can be. When children say it it’s merely innocent, but still strange for a Midwestern girl who’s never been a minority.